Most visitors see Hvar from the ferry or from the town square. The eastern half of the island rewards a car and an unhurried morning, because the villages up here are still lived in rather than visited.
The road west from Sucuraj
One road runs the length of the island. From Sucuraj it climbs quickly, and within 10 minutes you are on the ridge with the sea on both sides. Pull over where the road widens. The view back over the channel towards Peljesac and the mainland is the best one on the island, and there is no sign telling you where to stop.
Fill up before you set off, because there is no petrol station in Sucuraj.
Villages along the way
The eastern half of Hvar has a string of small settlements, some of them almost empty outside summer. Stone houses, a church, a bar that opens when someone is around. They are not attractions and there is nothing to queue for, which is exactly why they are worth the detour.
Go slowly. The roads are narrow, and in places you will meet a tractor or a flock of sheep at a blind corner.
Olive groves and vineyards
Olives and vines cover most of the workable land here, and some producers open their doors for tastings in season. Ask us before you go and we will tell you who is receiving visitors that year, because it changes.
Our own family makes wine and olive oil on the estate, so if you would rather not drive, the tasting can happen in the garden.
Lavender
Hvar is known for lavender, and the fields on the higher ground flower from late June into July. The season is short. If you are here in that window, it is worth a morning drive, and the light before 10 am is the best of the day for it.
On foot and by bike
More than 40 kilometres of walking and cycling paths run across this part of the island, through the groves and along the coast. We keep two bicycles at the house, free for guests to use.
The paths are gravel and stone in places, so they suit a steady ride rather than a fast one. Start early in summer. By 11 am the sun is direct and the shade runs out.
How long to allow
A morning gets you the ridge, one or two villages and a swim on the way back. A full day takes you as far as Jelsa, 50 kilometres away, or Stari Grad at 61 kilometres.
Either way, come back for the evening. The best part of the drive is arriving home to a quiet garden with the light going down over the water.
Planning your stay in Sucuraj? Check our available apartments.